$21.90
In Stock


In Stock: 1


Cover Type: Softcover
Book Condition: Fine
Jacket Condition: None Issued
Publisher: EBURY AUSTRALIA
Publisher Place: Australia
Publisher Year: 2014
Edition: Reprint

Description: 341 pages. Book appears to have hardly been read and is in Fine condition throughout.

Publishers Description: The former professional surfer tells his own storyOn the surface he was Tom Carroll, dreamer, brilliant surfer, Australian sports hero, fitness fanatic, businessman, family man, and big wave charger. But inside turned the terrible wheel of drug addiction—part family curse, part legacy of the footloose surf culture hed done so much to legitimize. Toms family and friends struggled with him, kept his secrets, and looked on in anger and fear as the wheel began to grind him down. Then a window opened, but getting through it made charging Pipeline look like a piece of cake. This is the story of an unlikely moral of humility, family, damage, brotherhood, youth, stupidity, glory, single-mindedness, and surrender, and about the feeling of water moving under a surfboard, how it can bind past to present and make sense of lives.

ISBN: 9780857987051

(209833)


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